Accounts of a Church Photographer

Wiltshire Revisits

2006-06-18T05:09:00.000-07:00

A late start and I didn't arrive in the area until 11am, yet I managed ten places (plus return visits). I've noticed that when I start early I tend to get less done; some strange reciprocal law at work...

(Burbage, Wiltshire)

Arriving at five minutes to eleven I was right on time to see the last of the people disappearing into the church for a service. The small lane was crowded with vehicles and nowhere to park so I decided Burbage could wait for another day.

EASTON ROYAL, Wiltshire

Down a small lane off the main road. The church was quiet, peaceful and devoid of people. It was also open. Easton Royal is one of the small group of churches built (or rebuilt) at the end of the 16th Century. In this case it was the Earl of Hertford, Edward Seymour, who built it in 1591 following the demolition of the friary church nearby. Interestingly he had the monuments of his ancestors transfered from the friary church to Great Bedwyn (which I have not been inside yet). I wonder why he didn't have them put in this church?

No division between chancel and nave. Quite plain inside. A south tower was added in 1853. Several minor monuments plus a font that Pevsner assigns to 1591 but really could be of any post-1591 date (eg: 18th or early 19th Century). Judging from the repairs to its stonework he is probably correct.

MILTON LILBOURNE, Wiltshire

Also down a small lane to the south of the main road. To the north the early 18th Century Manor House. To the south-east a strange Victorian house.

The church is perched above the road. It was open. Inside it is quite light, helped by a clerestory on the south side (where there is no arcade, yet no clerestory above the arcade on the north side). Above the chancel arch a signed late 18th Century Royal Arms. In the north aisle an altar frontal locker with four panels that originally came from a gallery. These have crude late 18th Century paintings on them, one showing a ship and another a view of the church. There were six panels but two have apparently been destroyed.

The north aisle also contains a Perp. tomb with panelled arch. On the floor are the remains of some mediaeval tiles.

WOOTTON RIVERS, Wiltshire

A long walk up a little path and into the churchyard. An old man was mowing the grass. The church is really a creation of G. E. Street who pretty much replaced the ancient little building in 1861. It was open. Inside a nice panelled font, probably of the 14th Century. The rest of the furnishings by Street.

As I was taking the deeply moulded south doorway then man mowed his way over to me and told me the church was open. I thanked him (although I'd already been inside).

Then I cut away far to the south.

CHOLDERTON, Wiltshire

The church across a little bridge and at the end of a short lane flanked by a cottage on one side and the former school on the other. In the churchyard a 19th Century mausoleum surrounded by iron railing.

The church very much of its date; 1840-50. It was locked but I guessed the key was in the locked metal box on the lychgate. Two keyholders (for the box!) were listed. No-one home in the old school but the cottage had a barking dog that alerted its owner. A Scottish gentleman soon appeared and let me inside the church using the nice big key (and what a fantastic lock - I locked the church myself on leaving; I just had to. The key fitted the lock perfectly with no looseness or rattling, and turning it was like adjusting a well-oiled piece of fine machinery. I don't get excited by locks and keys - but this was an exception!)

Stone screen at the west end. Stone pulpit. All of the 1840's. One monument of 18th Century date at the west end. The big surprise is the roof which is a mediaeval hammer-beam from a church in Ipswich, Suffolk (but which church?). It was bought and brought to the church by the rector.

NEWTON TONEY, Wiltshire

A rather dull church of 1844. It was open and a woman was doing flowers. She told me I was "lucky" as it is normally locked. I asked if it was alright to take photos and she replied that she thought so. Later another woman (presumably a churchwarden) came in and the first one blurted out "This man's taking photographs, is that alright?!". The older woman just smiled and nodded.

Norman cauldron font and several minor monuments round out this one. I noticed the well-known student of the Romanesque, R. J. Boak had been to the church and signed the visitor's book.

(Allington, Wiltshire)

Beside a main road and very locked. I rang the curate listed on the notice board. A man (the curate's father) answered and told me she was out but would be in a bit later. I noted the number and headed off.

(Boscombe, Wiltshire)

Oh dear. This one also locked and with nothing whatsoever on the notice board in the churchyard. Same benefice, so I chalked this one up for querying too.

(Idmiston, Wiltshire)

Locked, but this time a CCT church. I have to wonder why the CCT feel they need to lock this (and with two locks too - a set of wire doors and the main door. It's like Fort Knox). The area is hardly high crime and it seems like much of the rest of rural Wiltshire. The keyholder was unfortunately out.

WINTERBOURNE EARLS, Wiltshire

The same benefice as the others and beside a busy A-road, but this one open. Hooray! By T. H. Wyatt and of 1867. One enters via a south tower-cum-porch. Inside this is a brass matrix which has been robbed of its brasses long ago.

Inside are a few monuments, only one being above average. Of more interest the sculpture, now set in the north wall of the chancel, of a priest holding a heart. Also two mediaeval stained glass roundels (called by Pevsner "blackened", but obviously cleaned since he was here).

Once I'd finished inside I rang the curate's number. A man answered - presumably one of the other clergy - and we talked about how I could gain access to the two churches. I soon had the information and, after completing the exterior of the current church, made my way back. But not before stopping at:

WINTERBOURNE DAUNTSEY, Wiltshire

The Elms right on the main road. A large 18th Century house of red brick.

ALLINGTON, Wiltshire

I collected the key from the woman across the road. I told her I'd already phoned the curate and that's how I got her address and that they were happy for me to see inside the church. This didn't seem to be enough as I was asked the Dreaded Question. It's been a while since I was asked "who are you?", so I tried out the new answer I'd been working on to this rather awkward, illogical question. I gave her my name and added "if that's of any use to you seeing as you don't know who I am". She pondered this for a moment and then gave me the key.

Rather small inside. Remains of some Norman work both inside and outside in what is really a wholly Victorian rebuild. I didn't notice the famous RJB in the visitor's book this time, so perhaps he gave up here? Chancel with Victorian decoration on the walls which will probably be of note in 100 to 200 years time (if the church is still standing by then - is it? When you, dear reader of the future, read this, go and find out).

BOSCOMBE, Wiltshire

I parked up and went to the Old Rectory. The man there came with me to the church and opened it.

Small and simple with 17th Century two-decker pulpit and box pews. Large 17th Century north chapel with some Victorian Royal Arms and notice boards chock full of information on the church and people associated with it. So why is it locked? This church really should be open. Three small mediaeval roundels in the east window and several painted texts on the walls including a "Fear God, Honour the King" in black-letter text over the chancel arch.

IDMISTON, Wiltshire

I returned and this time found the keyholder at home. I was soon inside.

Arcades with bands of green and white stone. Aisles clasping the tower. The corbels in the nave and aisle roofs are high quality 15th Century work. Large Purbeck font. In the south aisle a monument with a kneeling figure to Giles Rowbach who died in 1633.

Then home.

Gloucestershire Inquisition

2006-06-17T05:09:00.000-07:00

COWLEY, Gloucestershire

The church lies in the grounds of the manor house which is now an hotel. I arrived at about 9:30 and found it locked. The church is nothing special externally and has little inside it to excite either. It's just a pleasant and quiet little church - nothing more or less. I did the exterior and then left. While there was a churchwarden listed there was no mobile signal to make a call. I was half inclined to call at hotel reception, but the number seemed like a better option.

I drove up the road and further up a hill the signal returned. I decided to give the number a try. The woman with a double-barrel surname answered the phone and I explained I wanted to see inside the church because I'd found it locked (and I guessed correctly it is normally open but I was just a bit early). She told me it was normally open but I could ask at the manor house and then quickly said she'd come down herself in one of those "doh! why did I tell him that" moments. I could feel trouble brewing; the need to come and check up on me even though the church is normally open. If it wasn't for me ringing her she'd never know I was visiting.

Sure enough, she turned up and unlocked it as promised, but questioning my reasons several times. "I guess you don't need permission to photograph inside" she said. "No", I replied, "but I always ask out of courtesy. So is it ok for me to do so?" She seemed to ignore this, or perhaps she wasn't listening. She watched me sign the visitor's book and then said:

"Can I please have your name and address".
"May I ask for what purpose?"
"Because I don't know who you are"
"Well! I could write down any old name, couldn't I?"
"In that case I'll just have to wait until you go"

Such logic! It's a pity people aren't so supicious with real thieves. What did she think I was going to do? Pee in the font? Would I have called her if I was going to do anything? The mind boggles. I sincerely regretted having phoned - I should have just called at hotel reception or come back later in the day and forgone the inquisition. I gave her my driving license as it was better "proof" but she pushed it away saying she couldn't read it. I then wrote down my name and address, hoping she'd go away and leave me in peace. My wish was granted. Hooray.

I'd almost finished when an elderly chap and his dog came in. He greeted me and said he'd just spoken with the churchwarden. If I hadn't been so wound up I might have been more civil. Regrettably I replied "Hello, so you've come to check up on me too?". However, I was fortunate as he was an extremely nice gentleman; "I come and unlock the church every day. Today I'm a bit late. I come and unlock it so chaps like YOU can do your work" he said gently, pointing at my camera. I decided to change the subject as he was obviously terribly nice and I felt silly. We chatted about the church and then I walked with him to the carpark. He told me some interesting stories about the former owners of the house. The hotel manager arrived and I left them talking.

I then sped off to:

BRIMPSFIELD, Gloucestershire

The church sits on its own in the fields and is reached by a track which is gated off at each end. To the south rise the earthworks of a former castle built by the Giffard family and destroyed when Edward II had Sir John Giffard executed in 1321. The path to the church passes through clipped hedges made into arches. To the north is a shed with remains of stonework, probably from the former priory that lay to the north of the church.

The church itself is rather odd in its interior arrangement. It was open. The central tower has Early English piers which have been cut in half and deep recesses for altars to the north and south. The chancel is odd too; there is no east window and never has been. The chancel contains one of the largest coffin lids I've ever seen. The massive stone has a sword carved on it and was probably for one of the Giffard family.

Also of interest the pulpit dated 1658 and the 15th Century font. As I was about to leave a large group of walkers arrived and wandered around.

WINSTONE, Gloucestershire

In keeping with Brimpsfield this church also has no east window. One gets to the building by a narrow track to the south of the village. It was open. I found the churchyard most amusing. To the south of the porch are a large number of small headstones of the 17th and early 18th Centuries. It looks like a dwarfs cemetary.

Inside it is neat and tidy with only one monument, a nicely lettered stone tablet on the west wall of the nave. The remains of the mediaeval rood loft beams are preserved on the chancel east wall.

MISERDEN, Gloucestershire

A church I'd been to many years ago. At the time I'd arrived late in the day and found it locked. Today it was open. The path to the porch passes through a clipped yew forming an arch.

Inside I found a man preparing the church and doing some cleaning. On the walls are several monuments, but the best monuments lie in the south chapel. In the centre lies a good marble monument to Sir William Sandys and his wife. Two recumbent effigies on a tomb chest. Around the sides are kneeling children. The other monument is to William Kingston. He lies on another tomb chest with a goat eating a cabbage at his feet.

HARESFIELD, Gloucestershire

I returned to finish the interior of the church. I'd already been told that the church would be open. A man and two women sat inside with coffee and cakes ready - ready for visitors who, I knew, would never arrive. It's always sad to see people at a normally locked church go to this effort, thinking people will just turn up, and then be bitterly disappointed when no-one arrives. They told me I was only the second visitor for the afternoon.

The font here is hard to date. It's lead, like other in the county, but has an entirely different pattern. Some "experts" claim it to be 17th Century. I think it is a lot earlier than that.

HARESCOMBE, Gloucestershire

A church in a small hamlet. It was open. Big 13th Century bellcote between the nave and chancel. Nice whitewashed interior with two recently restored monuments flanking the chancel arch. That on the left with nice lettering. The one on the right, to Mr Jonathan Blagge, with a wreath of fruit and flowers and a bust of the gentleman at the top flanked by cherubs. All very rustic.

EDGE, Gloucestershire

A simple Victorian chapel of ease. It was locked so I rang the incumbent. He came and showed me the interior, then we drove on to his other church at:

PITCHCOMBE, Gloucestershire

An early 19th Century church with several minor monuments inside. At the rear a former school house. This church and Edge make an interesting comparison.

BROOKTHORPE, Gloucestershire

A CCT church. Locked, but the large key available from a house in the village. Not a great deal to see inside. Minor monuments put in the tower by the Victorians. Of more interest, the grafitti scratched on the beams in the porch.

MORETON VALENCE, Gloucestershire

My third visit to this church. Before I could try the phone numbers a woman in the churchyard tending a grave asked me if I'd like to see inside - she had a key. On my way to the church I noticed that the path had been dug up (presumably just in the last few days as it was there on my last visit) - the churchyard is apparently being tidied up and a new path installed.

The interior quite light thanks to the whitewashed walls and plaster ceiling. Norman chancel arch. A few minor bits of mediaeval glass in a window.

Then, having thanked the lady for waiting for me, I headed home.

Messing About in Bucks - III

2006-06-16T05:08:00.000-07:00

Another afternoon in Bucks.

STOKENCHURCH, Buckinghamshire

The church sits at the back of some houses. A notice board with useless information but no names or contact details for anyone. It goes without saying that it was locked. Disgraceful.

RADNAGE, Buckinghamshire

Not far away but reached by twisty turny lanes leading in all directions. East. I entered a narrow lane and came across the church. Some people were just leaving and told me the church was open. The man, who was on his way down the path, asked if it was official photography. Unfortunately I was still dressed in a suit and hadn't changed yet (I was hoping to use this church to do so!) First rule of church visiting: never ever wear formal or semi-formal clothes. I've found the dirtier and more ragged you are the less suspicion is drawn! I remember a good friend of mine visited a locked church and was refused the key by both the vicar and churchwarden. I'd already done the church and was allowed inside. The difference? I was wearing dirty jeans and had a camera around my neck. He was wearing a suit and had a pen and notebook.

Inside quite a few 17th Century painted texts on the walls as well as mediaeval wall paintings. Only the top section of a large St Christopher on the north wall still remains. Two ancient brasses, one of the 16th Century with a figure and children.

BLEDLOW, Buckinghamshire

A church with low, flat nave and chancel, although the nave one had a steep gable as witnessed by the line of it on the tower. In the bare churchyard the remains of a cross base.

It was locked but a keyholder was just up the road. Entry via the small north door. Early English aisles clasping the tower. Two rather nice 18th Century wall monuments each side of the chancel east window. The chancel also contains a figure brass which was very difficult to photograph because it is located in a small recess. Worse still is that they polish it. Polishing is a sure-fire way to destroy brasses. DON'T DO IT.

Royal Arms of 1952. In the south aisle a rather fantastic font with scalloped sides and other decoration. The walls have remains of wall paintings including a very fragmentary St Christopher.

SAUNDERTON, Buckinghamshire

A small Victorian church. A keyholder was listed but this turned out to be the house next door and there were a group of people having dinner in the garden (it being such a lovely warm evening). I decided not to barge in on them and so I sat and waited. A phone rang and someone went to answer it but I was a few seconds late with calling out when they came back out of the house. So I sat and waited some more. Eventually they finished and I seized the chance to make myself noticed as a man entered the house via the side door.

I soon had the key (and the lady thanked me several times for waiting). The church contains a set of Royal Arms for Charles (presumably the 2nd) and a scalloped font (a sort of forerunner of the one at Bledlow).

Then home.

Come, Rest and Pray

2006-06-11T05:07:00.000-07:00

TIDCOMBE, Wiltshire

I arrived 15 minutes after the service. No-one was around and the church was open. To the north a large manor house with extensive gardens. Tower with clasping aisles. Old font and several minor monuments.

FOSBURY, Wiltshire

The church and the former vicarage sit next to each other and are approached via a short tree-lined road. The vicarage is now a house. The church is closed; it has been for many years. The large Victorian church with a south-west tower had some scaffolding at the west end, so something is going on. I moved through the overgrown churchyard, photographing the exterior. As there was no chance of gaining access I mounted the camera on the tripod and extended it up to some clear glass in both the west and east windows. The interior looks to have most of the original furnishings.

COLLINGBOURNE KINGSTON, Wiltshire

The main road approaches the church and then veers to one side. I parked on the wide footpath and ventured into the churchyard. The church was open. The chancel is dominated by a gigantic Jacobean monument. The superstructure is rather too heavy and the recumbent effigies are almost buried inside it. Two other effigies kneel looking to the west. Another monument on the wall with a good bust. Under the carpet in the centre of the chancel is a brass. Rather badly it's covered with deteriorating rubber backed underlay.

EVERLEIGH, Wiltshire

A CCT church. Early 19th Century Gothic. The old sign by the main road says "Come, Rest and Pray". Unfortunately there could be none of that; the church was locked and the listed keyholder was either out or outside the range of hearing a knock on the door.

ENFORD, Wiltshire

The church was locked but a keyholder was listed next door. I arrived just as a woman was pulling out of the driveway in her car. She jumped out and fetched the key.

Inside are some fantastic Norman arcades; neat and all of one build with no messing about by subsequent generations. The chancel has some strange blank arcading on the north wall and an octagonal mediaeval vestry reached via a short corridor. Above the chancel arch a large Royal Arms with a most comical lion.

While I was here a man came in. He asked me for the name of the church, looked around very briefly and then left just as mysteriously as he'd arrived.

FITTLETON, Wiltshire

The church was open. Not a great deal inside apart from some minor monuments and a reconstructed Jacobean monument in the chancel. The font is Norman with sunk panels and slight chevron patterns.

NETHERAVON, Wiltshire

The church sits at the south end of the village and one approaches a tall Saxo-Norman tower through the churchyard. Unfortunately it was locked and the keyholders were out.

FIGHELDEAN, Wiltshire

The slot-like footpath leads straight through the raised banks of the churchyard to the south porch. Inside the porch are two very weathered and defaced effigies of recumbent knights. The church was open. Inside arcades of green and white stone and some minor monuments. Of more interest the pencilled names of numerous people (mostly First World War soldiers) in the stairwell of the west gallery and on the tower arch.

(Netheravon, Wiltshire)

I tried again but all the keyholders were still out.

DURRINGTON, Wiltshire

Near the church a huge village cross base. The church itself was open. Very dark inside. The north arcade clearly Victorian but the south arcade again with green and white stone. Lots of Jacobean woodwork - pews, pulpit and readers desk.

I'd almost finished when a man came to lock up. One item I'd missed was the Jacobean screen which now lies under the tower. It's actually in the gallery but I could find no stairs or ladder to gain access. I asked the man about this and he showed me the drop-down ladder. We went up to ringing gallery and I was able to complete the work. Outside on the south side the remains of a fancy Norman doorway.

Then home.

Severn Loop

2006-06-10T05:05:00.000-07:00

DURSLEY, Gloucestershire

St Mark. The church was locked so I just did the exterior. Then the Priory and Raglan House.

(Upper Cam)

I intended to do the interior but people were setting up flowers for a wedding so I moved on.

FRETHERNE, Gloucestershire

A Victorian church with much decoration and a north-west tower.

The church, pretty much on its own, was locked. A note on the board in the porch-cum-tower (which was open) pleaded with the vicar to have the church open. Another note gave a phone number of a keyholder but they were out. I did the exterior and then asked a man mowing the grass in the churchyard. He didn't have a key but directed me to two possibilities, on of which was a plant nursery up the road.

I drove into the nursery and asked someone who directed me to the house. The man there didn't have the key as his wife, who knew where it was, was out. He helpfully tried ringing around. He must have tried at least eight numbers but no-one was home. He eventually tried the vicar. He was fortunately in and I was given directions to meet him and get the key at his house in Frampton-on-Severn.

After asking me for identification he gave me the key and I was soon back at the church. The interior is as equally ornate as the exterior. I can't say I really liked it; the arcade is most peculiar with one pier of polished marble and the others of stone. Several hatchments lay around propped up against the walls - unusually not made of canvas but painted on wood.

Later, I learnt from the woman at the store in Arlingham that this church came very close to closing.

After dropping the key back I headed off to:

ARLINGHAM, Gloucestershire

The church was locked, just as it had been when I visited it several years ago. Fortunately the key is held at the local store. My last visit was on a Sunday so I did not get to see the inside. Today I headed back to the church with the key.

This church sits away from the village and out on a large loop in the Severn. Across the river can be seen the tower of Newnham-on-Severn church. There wasn't a sound to be heard in the hot sunny churchyard.

Inside it was quiet too, but much cooler. The church was neat and tidy. A document on the wall tells of the building of the tower in the 14th Century and lists some of the people who gave towards it including Roger the vicar. Perhaps the best things here are the mediaeval stained glass windows with strong reds and greens. One of the windows shows St Catherine and her wheel. Also of interest a wooden 18th Century font made into a poor box in the 19th Century.

I flicked through the visitor's book; at one stage some ghost hunters had been here - the first time I've seen someone stating that as their reason for visiting. One signed himself "Rev." Did they record anything? I called out loud as I was about to lock the door for any ghosts to make themselves heard. The church bell struck just as I said it, but that wasn't a sign as it was, by chance, the half hour. I then returned the key and headed on.

ELMORE, Gloucestershire

This church was open eighteen years ago but on my visit six years ago it was locked. Like it again today unfortunately. I guess most people would come for the fantastic tomb chest carvings (some of the best in England) and the ruined mausoleum. Both of these are in the churchyard. Yet the church is interesting inside as it has an inscised effigy, several hatchments and a huge painting on canvas in the vestry covering the entire wall (and not mentioned in Pevsner).

I remember talking to the churchwarden in the next village (same benefice) six years ago. This was the first time I'd heard the "we lock the church now because it had a break-in" and then pointed out that if it was broken in to then it must have been locked. I never have liked that excuse (and still don't) because it smacks of falsehood. Why lie? Why not just say "We lock the church because we always have"? Honest and straightforward.

I took the exterior (which is the second time - but I was just making sure) and then tried some phone numbers. Fortunately the PCCs in this benefice have made some provision for visitors (but I don't recall this last time, so it must be a new idea). The churchwarden was unfortunately out (and who could blame her on such a glorious day?)

I then tried the vicar. He was in and told me it would be best to arrange for another day as he was busy. Unfortunately I'd already decided I wasn't coming back all the way out here to Elmore for another attempt - I've pretty much done the area and it's well out of the way - I wasn't going to take "no" for an answer. I explained this and he relented, although he wouldn't be able to come out for another two hours or so. As I later found out, he was new and had only been here for a month, so perhaps I was rather lucky he did relent. To fill in the time I headed off to:

QUEDGELEY, Gloucestershire

I small peculiar looking church (but in the nicest way) set in a reasonable sized churchyard in a built-up area with lots of modern housing. I felt certain it would be locked. Indeed, given the location I would have given it a one in a hundred chance of being open. However, it was not only open but the doors were flung wide open. By the look of the noticeboard I'd say they have a very active congregation here and have no hesitation in leaving the church open for all. The only thing they lacked was a visitor's book (which really was rather a shame). No-one was around.

The Victorians had a go here and supplied the north corner of the chancel/nave with a most unusual crossed squint, that is, squints at right angles and intersecting; one from the north aisle to chancel and the other from nave to north chancel chapel. The north chancel chapel is glassed off but contains nothing of interest.

In the chancel an ancient brass. In the short south aisle a range of monuments including a really nice late 17th Century one.

I liked this church and I'm pleased it was open.

STANDISH, Gloucestershire

One enters the churchyard next to a large hall of mediaeval origins. The church was open. Inside it's long and very wide. And rather empty too. On the south wall of the nave is a large monument to an ancestor of Winston Churchill. The west end is dominated by a gallery and organ in 17th Century style but all of the 20th Century. The east window is quite special and must certainly be of a one-off design.

Two women arrived, one old and one young. They pottered around in the vestry and then left. I finished and then headed back for my appointment at:

ELMORE, Gloucestershire

I arrived early and sat in the sun. A man and woman arrived. They didn't introduce themselves but as the man had a key I assumed he was the vicar.

Inside were the items I mentioned before. Once I finished I headed off to the other church in this benefice I hadn't done.

HARDWICKE, Gloucestershire

I did the exterior and then waited for the vicar to arrive. He and the woman soon did. The nave is unremarkable. The chancel has a south chapel and this is full of tomb chests, which is quite unusual. Between this chapel and the chancel is a tomb chest with recumbent effigy on it.

MORETON VALENCE, Gloucestershire

Locked, like it was on my visit six years ago. This time, however, several people listed with phone numbers. All but one were out. A man told me he'd come around to the church and unlock it. He arrived but unfortunately his wife was out and she had the key.

On the north side is an ancient porch which shelters a Norman tympanum showing St Michael fighting the dragon.

HARESFIELD, Gloucestershire

The church at the end of a private drive that goes past a house. Sadly locked. I rang one of the churchwardens and he came down and opened it. Unfortunately he couldn't stay long so I only completed part of the interior. Several good monuments including a large one with excellent figures of Father Time and Death.

I arranged to revisit the church at a later date and then headed home.